Here is a video about the installation of the launcher.
To change the game language
1. Press Win + R (or open your explorer) and type %appdata%/Need for Speed World/Settings
2. Open the file UserSetting.xml
3. Search in the file this line <Language Type="string">EN</Language>
4. Change EN by something else (For exemple FR for French, or ES for spanish, etc etc.)
List of controllers
Here is the list of controllers that work without third-party software. Be sure to plug in before starting the game.
Microsoft Xbox 360 Controller Logitech ChillStream Logitech Rumble Gamepad 510 Logitech Rumblepad Logitech Rumblepad 2 Logitech Cordless Rumblepad 2 Logitech DualAction Gamepad Logitech G25 Wheel Logitech G27 Wheel Logitech MOMO Force Feedback Wheel Thrustmasters Universal Challenge Racing Wheel
For new generation controllers that have Xbox one/PlayStation 4 as their base, you will need to use software.
For controllers based on the Xbox one, you will need to install Xpadder and follow the guide.
For controllers based on PlayStation 4, you will need to install JoyToKey and follow the guide.
Get advanced graphics
Everyone knows that there is no menu of advanced chart options in the game. So we will have to do this manually by editing the configuration file. Remember that this procedure does not make use of any type of hack and can be done normally by any player.
First, copy the address below, paste in the address bar of Windows Explorer and press Enter: %appdata%/Need for Speed World/Settings
You will see a file named UserSettings. Make a backup copy of this file so that you can recover it if something goes wrong. Now right click on the file and go to edit.
Roll the bar to the end of the text and you will see this excerpt:
On the line <performancelevel Type="int">1</performancelevel>, change the number 1 (or any other value) to the number 5. Now save the file, then enter and exit the game.
After doing this, open the file again and scroll to the end of the text. You will notice that the excerpt shown above has more lines of code
The explanation for this is that, the performancelevel line controls the level of detail in the game (0 = minimum, 1 = low, 2 = medium, 3 = high, 4 = maximum). By setting the number 5, you can choose your own settings by editing the values on each line.
Following are the values that can be used on each of the lines and their effect (ignore strikethrough lines as they don't cause changes in the graph).
audiomode: 1 is stereo-, 2 surround-sound.
audioquality: 1 sounded better than 0 to me, but that might be imagination.
brightness: Ranks from 0 to 100, sets the brightness in full screen. You can set higher values, but that just looks ridiculous.
basetexturefilter: 0 is no, 1 a bad and 2 the best texture filter.
basetexturelodbias: If you set it to a higher value than 0, distant objects will be loaded with lower details to save power. But sometimes it begins with cars five meters away from you. Not yet sure about the possible values.
basetexturemaxani: Sets the Anisotropic Filtering (AF) for any texture. You may set 0x, 2x, 4x, 8x or 16x AF.
carenvironmentmapenable: Reflections on cars are controlled with this. Ranks from 0 to 4.
carlodlevel: 0 for minimum and 1 for maximum details on cars.
enableaero: 0 to disable Aero and 1 to let Aero on while playing. Just important for Windows Vista and 7.
firsttime: 1 for a performance check of your system and a automatic graphics-preset based on it. You can enable it with the "Default"-setting in-game. It is stored in the UserSettings.xml at . Let it at 0 unless you have installed new hardware and want a new default-setting.
forcesm1x: "True" just causes graphics errors, maybe it is for compatibility to older GPUs?
fsaalevel: Full-Scene Anti-Aliasing, renders the 2D-image again through the Anti-Aliasing-process. You can set it from 0 to 4. If you prefer the AA of your graphics driver, set it to 0.
globaldetaillevel: Sets the details of the environment, ranks from 0 to 4.
maxskidmarks: The higher this setting, the more skidmarks you can have at once. With a higher value they won't disappear as fast. Ranks from 0 to 2.
motionblurenable: 0 disables and 1 enables the Motion Blur-effect.
overbrightenable: 0 disables and 1 enables the Overbright-effect.
particlesystemenable: 0 disables and 1 enables the particlesystem, which is responsible for powerup-, smoke- and fire-effects. If your computer lags while using powerups, you may set it to 0.
performancelevel: This controls which of the five presets in-game is loaded. Ranks from 0 to 4, but as you don't want to have a preset if you do this, let it at 5. Then there is no preset to be loaded.
pixelaspectratiooverride: If the image on your screen is too big or too small, you can adjust it with this setting. Just enter the number you want to multiply the size of the image with.
rainenable: If there was a rain-effect in World: 0 disables and 1 enables the rain-effect. But there is none yet.
roadreflectionenable: Controls reflections on streets. Ranks from 0 to 2.
roadtexturefilter: Look at basetexturefilter, for roads.
roadtexturelodbias: Lood at basetexturelodbias, for roads.
roadtexturemaxani: Look at basetexturemaxani, for roads.
screenheight: The height of your monitor in pixels, e.g. 1080 for Full-HD.
screenleft: I just don't know what this does, altering it changed nothing for me.
screenrefresh: The refresh rate of your monitor. Should be set automatically to the right value.
screentop: I just don't know what this does, altering it changed nothing for me.
screenwidth: The width of your monitor in pixels, e.g. 1920 for Full-HD.
screenwindowed: 0 disables and 1 enables the window mode.
shaderdetail: Controls the quality of the shader, responsible for changes on surfaces, e.g. water, scratches on cars and so on. 0, 1, 2 and 4 are possible, 3 just causes errors.
shadowdetail: Controls the quality of the shadows, it is recommended at 2 with shaderdetail at 4 for best shadows. Ranks from 0 to 2.
size: Might control how much VRAM World can use. In MB. 0 is autodetect. A manual setting saved FPS for some people, you may try it.
version: I don't know which version is meant, it hasn't changed for the last weeks.
visualtreatment: 0 disables and 1 enables visual treatment. Responsible for effects while crashing, entering or leaving the safehouse or warmer/colder colours at specific daytimes and places.
vsyncon: 0 disables and 1 enables VSync.
watersimenable: 0 disables and 1 enables water simulations. In World they are really bad, you might set it to 0 as there isn't much water in World.
After editing the values the way you want, save your changes and enter the game to see the changes. Make a copy of the file again, because if you change the level of detail in the game menu, all changes will be undone.
In this section, we have listed all the error codes that we know about and that may eventually happen.
About the game
(NET_ERROR_CONNECT_PEER_TIMEOUT) : This error is visible in freeroam when you try to launch a test, to solve this you will need to download the LightFX.dll and put it in the folder of your game.
Code 5 : Unable to connect to the server, try again in a few minutes.
Code 6 : Lost connection, Please reconnect.
Code 7 : Connection to the server lost, wait a few moments.
Code 10 : Invalid connection session, try again.
Code 13 : Unable to establish a stable connection to the server, check your connection.
Code 410 : You shouldn't have played with fire, you're banned.
For Electron|Error 3221225477 (0xc0000005) : This is caused by your computer not being able to correctly process the files & settings that it requires to run a particular program or installation. Despite the error showing when you try and use particular pieces of software, or when you try and upgrade Windows, it has many different causes including the likes of faulty RAM problems, errors with the files of your PC and issues with the settings of your PC. WOT Sources. How to fix : Usually you only need to download the game files again with your antivirus disabled in a location that you have administrator permissions. If this does not help, go to this page for more details: WOT Forum. Or do a Google search with 0xc0000005 for more information about this problem.
The different softwares
Here you will find all the hack that are accepted/banned.
Kick Race Player
Tresors Hunters Hack
Drift (Freeroam ONLY (Remember to restart your game to completely disable the behavior change.)
Here you will find all the descriptions of the parts that are involved.
The engine is the heart of the car, provides the biggest change resulting in a win or loss.
The AmerikonSS/Gromlen/Medion/Transtek and QuartzSpeedPackages engines are all about delivering the middle of the road power output. Think of this as a Ram Air Intake upgrade, which increases engine power in the lower-mid range. It's usually muscle cars such as a Dodge Viper SRT10 or its full-size relative, the Dodge Charger SRT8, that benefit from this engine, but it will also work for exotic cars like the Ford GT and the SLR McLaren.
Considered to be the best engine you can get in Need for Speed: World, the Dawndraft/Kestrel/Velocicom/ZeroTuningMods and StickMotorsport engine is a high-torque powerplant designed to pack quite a punch, allowing for quicker acceleration. What this would be suitable for is a low-RPM car, i.e. many of the classic muscle cars in the game (Chevelle SS especially), or in a real-life application, a high-torque AMG Mercedes.
The Nova-T/Richter/Ventura/AttackMotorsport and TearPerformance engine, considered to be the worst brand for power parts according to the NFSW community, is the lighter version of AmerikonSS/Gromlen/Medion. The difference between the two is that this is NOT designed for V10 engines; rather they’re more Inline oriented (Supra, Lancer Evolution and others of this nature). This is a must for every turbocharged engine, as too much horsepower will kill the car's torque, and too much torque will hold it back from its true potential.
Often noted as being the "bugged" engine, the collection of engines from OmniaRacegruppe/Norset/URSAMotorsport/Speedsciens and DynamoAftermarketKits are made for those high revving automobiles. This engine is tuned to provide high end hp with pretty bad low end torque, requiring an induction 9 times out of 10 to help out. Do note that this should be used only on cars with the peak near the high range (Nissan Skyline GT-R), rather than cars that still have quite a ways to go between their peak power and redline (Mazda RX-7).
On some cars, it’s optional. On others, it’s a matter of winning (and losing) a race. In this part, we talk about forced inductions and where they deliver the majority of torque.
Somewhere in your life you've heard and/or read about a big blower in a muscle car. Such is the case here, as the Gold Induction delivers raw power widespread across the RPM ranges in engines that are more HP-oreinted (Exige Cup 260, Shelby GT500 SS to name a few). It improves both acceleration and top speed, although it has a bit of a bias toward the horsepower side of things. It takes a while to make power, but the boost is massive once it does.
The “other” favorite among the community is the Dawndraft/Kestrel/Velocicom Induction. This is more or less the inverse of the Gold, tuned for better response at low-RPM. What this means is that it has smaller components and as a result is capable of making more power quicker than the Golf. The drawback with this induction, however, is that you get less power up top. This is suitable for torquier engines, namely those of classic muscle cars.
As weak as this turbo may seem, the Nova-T/Richter/Ventura Induction is, in actuality, not made to be strong. It is a turbo system that actually spools quickly up to speed, compromising top end boost in the process. This turbo is optional to install, but if you were to install one, it is best applicalbe to high-RPM cars, the Murcielago LP640 and the Porsche 911 GT3 RS being prime examples.
Screaming like a banshee, the Green turbo delivers sheer power at high-RPM and is thus the perfect brand for many turbocharged and/or naturally-aspirated cars like the RX-7 or the Corvette Z06 (yes, the Z06 carries a turbo, not a supercharger). It takes much longer to spool up than the Red, but it does deliver more boost once it reaches the top. Usually, the more peaky the engine, the more Boost it would need, but DO NOT apply this to a Green Engine as the car would die off in the lower range.
Remember the Game Guide stating that the higher price, the better the transmission? It doesn’t always work. Here is where we explain what every transmission does, as well as what it should be coupled with and why.
This transmission contains a balanced set of gears and is suitable for anything equipped with either a Gold engine or a Gold Transmission. It is also slightly heavier so the handling may or may not (this is based on the layout of the car) take a hit.
Need a drivetrain to keep your high-horsepower machine in top form? Look no further than the blue transmission. Featuring a higher final drive ratio and shorter gears, this transmission is made with the pure intent of making your high-RPM racer a top contender.
As per usual, the red drivetrain is the lightweight version of its rivals, AmerikonSS/Gromlen/Medion. Like the yellow, the red features balanced gears to manage the moderate power increases from the other power parts; however, in contrast, the red also features extra handling via the increase of rigidity, settling down cars that are known to be tail-happy a la Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution IX.
In order to take advantage of a car’s great low-RPM torque, longer gears must be used, and this is where this green transmission comes in. This drivetrain features extra-long gears, longer than those found in both the Medion and Ventura setups. Best used on an aforementioned low-RPM car, such as the Nissan GT-R and the Volkswagen Scirocco, this transmission allows the car to use its powerful low revs to its advantage in the straights, as well as a huge improvement in top speed.
One crucial point in any car in any race is how it handles (which is a challenge for many of the cars that handle like crap when they shouldn’t), and getting the right suspension for the car makes all the difference from spinning out or slamming the wall from taking a turn too wide. It’s a delicate balance that needs to be finely tuned.
This suspension is set to a soft setting. The resulting behavior is better traction and stability off road and on highways but understeer in turns and cause the car to jump higher on any smooth hills. The car will feel more stable going over tiny bumps such as apex’s and sidewalks and will loose less speed from collisions. Cars that would benefit from this suspension are muscle cars, which, in World, are well known for having either no stability, no traction, or having neither.
Designed for drag and rally cars, this suspension semi-stiffens the car, reducing body roll and helping the car accelerate, but in turn causing turning oversteer from. Cars that would benefit from this are front-heavy all-wheel-drive cars which are known to, according to the physics of World, have a lot of understeer and at times even have trouble accelerating.
Possibly the best suspension in the bracket, this stiffens up the car, thereby provoking more oversteer and delivering a crisper turn-in. Works well with many cars, whether they be drifters or have a hard time cornering. Note: This should be used only with rear-wheel drive as all-wheel drive cars don’t respond well to this as they would the blue suspension.
As with the Yellow suspension, the Green suspension has a semi-soft tuned setup, though in contrast, it provides a great deal of stability as the car gains speed and is therefore an exceptional choice for a highway-tuned car. However, as Omnia/Norset/URSA fails in the handling department, be prepared to face major understeer.
Yes, your car can achieve high speeds but eventually you will need to stop because a 60-0 time is just as important as a 0-60 time. You need a great set of brakes. Which type is right for your car, well... that’s up to what you’re looking for.
A set of front and rear brakes tuned for a slight front bias. If no car you own seems to fit the Ventura brakes, you can go for these.
A set of unbiased front and rear brakes with the purpose of quicker deceleration. These brakes do increase the risk of understeer due to the fact that they are very powerful and will lock your tires up, requiring earlier braking.
A set of front and rear brakes tuned to have the rear lock up slightly before the front. Causes braking oversteer and makes the car’s rear more likely to slide. Best used on rear-wheel-drive cars with drift tunings as well as known track cars like the Elise.
A set of unbiased front and rear brakes tuned kinda loosely. This was done to provide stable braking at high speeds(avoid locking up). The downfall is that the brakes have to be applied a bit earlier coming into a turn. These brakes should be paired up with Medion tires as the grip should slow you down.
You can ask any professional racer, whether it be in FIA, FD, Le Mans, etc. if the type of tires makes a difference in the behavior of a car’s handling, and you’ll get a resounding “yes” from each one. Same applies in World and the tires from the four brands in the game. Pick wisely, the wrong set of rubber may bork your ride considerably.
These tires improve the handling of a car all across the board by boosting grip by a considerable margin. By doing this, your car gets improved traction and improved stability and is recommended for any car that lacks in both fields. You do get some mild understeer, but it doesn’t make much of a difference to be considered car-breaking.
These are a set of tires that boost acceleration considerably by increasing traction. Their tendency to cause moderate oversteer, however, should be noted (although at times, if you know how, you can force power oversteer). ~ Credit to legor17 for the insight on power oversteer. Anecdotal information.
Designed for drifting, Nova-T/Richter/Ventura tires are perfect for known driftable cars (i.e. RX-7, 240SX, 350Z, 370Z, Silvia S15, AE116, etc.) as they help the car slide out in turns, basically the same function brakes with a rear bias have. These are also useful for track cars; however, as with the suspension of the same brand, this should be left to rear-wheel-drive vehicles.
These are a set of tires that benefit cars that rule on the highways. While the stat increases don’t tell you, they increase stability at high speeds, so in a way, these tires improve top speed. As with the blue tires, however, this causes turning understeer and, as a result, require precision turning from the driver.
1. As countless people have said before, different drivers have different preferences, thus different setups will apply. You do not have to follow guides' suggestions word by word, just use this guide as a base for what parts do and tune them for a setup that fits your driving style.
2. The top speed is not affected by the Top Speed stat itself, but by the overall stat. With that, it is not advisable to go for simply the best overall, as rarely does one ever reach top speed on any race except for any highway race.
3. Remember, this guide is like science, it can always be proven wrong.
4. If you have trouble figuring out which part to use for a certain car, you can always install a Gold part until you do find said part.